Process

I work primarily off of photographs. To begin, I select a couple photographs from the options provided. I then freehand a copy of the photograph in pencil with minimal shading. This step could be eliminated by using photo-editing software to extrapolate a "pencil" version of the photograph, however I feel that actually drawing the picture myself has some benefits. First of all, I know that I can reproduce every line in the drawing on glass, since I created it on paper. Second, by manually producing the drawing, I can chose to accentuate certain features, or alter the image to make it something I think is more perservation-worthy. Notice how in most of the pictures below, I open up the eyes a little. This is so that they show up better on the engraving. Since the final product is white on clear, adding the extra clarity to the eyes allows them to hold the center of focus more easily.

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In this picture in particular, I softened Katie's mouth a little, so she looked a tad happier.

Once I have the sketch ready, I scan it into the computer. I then print out the image at several different sizes. I trim off the edges, providing me with several square cutouts, which I then try to fit to the glass. I don't want the image to be too wide on the glass, or it wraps and distorts the final picture. When I find a size I like, I tape the cutout to the inside of the glass. Now I can begin the engraving process.

To ensure that the paper doesn't shift during the inital tracing phase, I stuff the glass with a T-shirt (usually a black one, since this is the color I will need later on). This also presses the paper nicely flush with the glass. The further the paper is from the glass, the more distortion you get when trying to trace, as your eyes are focusing on two different surfaces - the surface of the glass and the surface of the paper. I lightly trace the lines and very lightly mark the areas for shading while the paper is taped to the inside surface.

Next is the most fun part of the process. I remove the paper and stuff the shirt back into the glass. This gives me a nice black background on which to work. I also might mention I have two flourescent computer lights that I use to illuminate the glass while working. Now I can see the lightly engraved lines, and darken them as necessary. Fur effects and shading are mostly done with a shading tip, which I sometimes have the hang of using and sometimes not. I also use the shading tip to give the eyes a smooth texture. Engraving produces glass dust which can get in the way when trying to gauge how much "more" to add. I regularly use the end of the T-shirt to wipe off glass dust and remove fingerprints.

That's all there is to it! Once I have the initial image, the actual engraving takes only an hour or so (due to the simplicity of my technique). There are many types of electric engravers available on the market (the "good" ones costing in excess of $500), which allow you to produce a different type of engraving. There are many of these that allow you to produce depth in the image, but I have not had access to any of these to try it. I do currently own a low-end electric engraver, and it is very nice for creating uniform and easily bolded lines, however I find the vibrations to be a distraction and prefer the measure of control hand tools allow.

If you're interested in starting engraving, I recommend the hand tool set from Anything in Stained Glass. All the large chain hobby stores seem to have stopped carrying this in favor of the electric engraver. NOTE: Glass engraving produces a picture with many stroke lines in it, since all shading and outlining must come from individual tool motions. If you wish to create an image that is all of uniform color and consistancy, you might want to try glass etching - this is a process wherein you apply a chemical paste to the surface of the glass, which eats away at the surface. You can purchase many stencils for glass etching.

On a final note, when considering either having an engraving done, or beginnging to engrave yourself: The quality of glass matters! I began engraving on those cheap dollar store coffee cups. The glass would splinter easily and had a plasticy feel to it when I was engraving. I moved up to Wal-Mart's 4 packs of drinking glasses for $3ish. Those were a little better, but still splintery and precision of lines was still difficult at times. I've found the most success with more expensive glass. It's smoother under the tip and doesn't splinter. It's also more forgiving if you make a mistake. I like to peruse the glass selection at World Market for fun, unique, and good quality glasses.